Dar Kamal Chaoui – Bhalil Village – Morocco

03 Dec

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Bhalil Village

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Bhalil seems a simple Moroccan village, located on the sunny slopes of hills with olive orchards and ancient caverns. Overshadowed by Fes’s cultural attraction, Bhalil is still amazing both by the uniqueness of the troglodyte houses and the tradition of nearly 1,000 women who crochet buttons for djellabas (traditional Moroccan clothing) in the street.

Bhalil is also unique for its traditions of olive oil production, baking bread in earth ovens, local pottery, and unspoiled wedding customs. In this enriched context, Dar Kamal Chaoui guesthouse is situated in the heart of the village dating back to the fourth century. The house is located on the street connecting the transit route through the village to the great Mosque Jamaa-Kbir.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – the location of the guesthouse in the medina of Bhalil village

Dar Kamal Chaoui – the location of the guesthouse in the medina of Bhalil village

You start from the parking lot situated under the trees in Asfalou street. Then, you follow the directions of a signpost located on a blind wall of an old house. Soon, locals will start to smile and ask nodding if you go to “Kamal?” If you get lost, someone will kindly show you the right direction to go.

The main street climbs through the old medina (the old village center). Some steps mark the difference of level and continue to climb uphill. At a certain point, another signpost announces you have reached the guesthouse. On the left side of the street, an open ground floor decorated with marquetries invites you to stop. A massive double door of Cyprus carved in Berber-style guards the entrance. With its ancient look, the entrance door looks like a passage to another world.

Dar Kamal Chaoui –Bhalil village seen from the rooftop terrace of the house

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Bhalil village seen from the rooftop terrace of the house

Dar Kamal Chaoui – the House

Fifty years ago, Kamal Chaoui built the house on the site of a Berber old house which initially embedded several rooms refurbished in a cave. The ground floor of the new house is built of local stone. Robust walls host an ample room for dining and an open kitchen equipped with wooden furniture. Next to the main entrance, a private room overlooks the street. Then, a solid staircase, made of massive wood, climbs to the upper floors. In between floors, a wooden old door decorates a wall. The door was bought in a souq (old bazaar) in Fes and it comes from the Southern part of Morocco. Now, a small library with books genuinely fills the space behind it.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – decorative old door with a bookstore behind

Dar Kamal Chaoui – decorative old door with a bookstore behind

In the Berber tradition, there are rooms only for men, women, or guests (these have a very important role). Kamal has carried on this tradition and turned his new home into a true guest house. Four guest suites are located on the upper floors. Each of them has a name (Bea room, Sophia room, Adam room, and Adil room). Some of the rooms are facing the street, the other ones the backyard. All rooms have two to three beds and each one has a private bathroom. Modern furniture, with imprints of traditional Moroccan style, replaced the specific oriental arrangement of the U-shaped sofa on three sides of the room.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Interior Design

The walls have two layers of brick and glass wool for thermal insulation in between. Heating distribution for winter runs under the floors. On the ground floor, a wood fire boiler stands in a corner of the kitchen, hidden behind a wood perforated panel. The flooring of the rooms has white cement finishing with various additives according to the desired color, further brushed with a wire brush. Walls of the recently restructured bathrooms, sink holders, and bathtubs have tadelakt finishes. Tadelakt is a plaster made of cement-limestone, color additive, and water, with three layers of polishing creating a satin refined looking.

Solid wood shutters create privacy for the guest rooms. All rooms have a three-layer insulating glass for windows, the best choice in a 950-meter-altitude mountain village. Moreover, rooms feature traditional motifs, from Berber curtains and blankets woven by Naima with sheep wool to local wood furniture and Berber carpets. The furniture belongs to Abdul Latif – a local carpenter and antiquarian who has his workshop in a nearby cave. Decorative wicker baskets have different sizes and belong to Uncle Basha, a former barber, supported by Kamal to revive the basket tradition in the village.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – sink polished with tadelakt and wicker basket

Dar Kamal Chaoui – sink polished with tadelakt and wicker basket

After several improvements, the unused rooftop terrace became an outdoor space for relaxation and dining. A wood pergola and a rush matting cover protect the terrace overlooking the Jamaa al Kbir Mosque. On the terrace, decorative vegetation creates a small, lush green oasis. Also, furniture of raw wood and raffia brings a calm and tranquil atmosphere. In this environment, sheep wool Berber blankets are the best remedy for cool mountain evenings.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – the rooftop terrace with a sitting area

Dar Kamal Chaoui – the rooftop terrace with a sitting area

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Personal Experience

When I entered Kamal’s house in the fall of 2015, I noticed the traditional Berber elements in the house right away. Built only fifty years ago, the house has an antique atmosphere and a local Moroccan vibe. The interior design transposed me into an authentic world, with local craftsmen, traditional furniture, and furnishings in Berber style. Naima’s traditional food, cooked only with local products, was smelling tempting in the kitchen. Every evening, the owners – Kamal and Beatrice, had dinner with their guests. The meeting with Kamal’s mother was always accompanied by the gentle question “Ca va ?” full of kindness.

Dar Kamal Chaoui – with Kamal Chaoui on the rooftop terrace of the house

Dar Kamal Chaoui – with Kamal Chaoui on the rooftop terrace of the house

As Kamal attracts great people around him, I found myself in an unplanned travel writer’s meeting in Bhalil. In the afternoon, we went together to Sefrou and had a kefta sandwich at a local eatery. The following day, we explored the village and had breakfast with the troglodytes inside a cave. Nothing could have been more authentic than that!

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Kamal in front of his Berber house

Dar Kamal Chaoui – Kamal in front of his Berber house

Dar Kamal Chaoui can be found on booking, tripadvisor, and their website.

More photos from Dar Kamal Chaoui in Bhalil (Morocco):

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24 Responses to “Dar Kamal Chaoui – Bhalil Village – Morocco”

  1. sophie August 18, 2016 at 2:32 pm #

    I always enjoy reading about new places that I’ve never heard of before! What a wonderful place to have been able to visit!

    • Authentic Travels August 18, 2016 at 3:03 pm #

      I’ve never heard before Bhalil either before visiting Morocco. The place is amazing and Kamal is a wonderful person.

    • Kamal Chaoui July 24, 2017 at 5:05 pm #

      Hello Sophie, I found your nice comment A year after you posted it, Thank you for enjoying our village, I decided to answer and give you more info about our village and house, I hope to see all of you soon, I’m ready to give you all the good tips and historical info about my region !
      Enjoy this article : http://www.grumpycamel.com/dar-kamal-chaoui

  2. Two Small Potatoes August 18, 2016 at 3:42 pm #

    What a beautiful find. I really love the ornate wooden door to the bookstore and the rooftop garden. 🙂

  3. Briana August 18, 2016 at 4:20 pm #

    Great information in this. Always wanted to go to Morocco, but heard mixed reviews. Great pics too!

    • Authentic Travels August 18, 2016 at 4:30 pm #

      You definitely should go to Morocco. It is a very conservative country with fantastic traditions. Berbers are awesome.

  4. blondemoments August 18, 2016 at 4:50 pm #

    it si so amazing to see what else is out there. thank you for sharing!

  5. Lyssie August 18, 2016 at 5:37 pm #

    I love Morocco! I would have loved to visit a traditional, non-touristy town like this and see the real country. The culture, people, and sights just amaze and thrill me. I loved reading about your trip to Bhalil!

  6. Jasmine August 18, 2016 at 6:57 pm #

    I’ve always wanted to go to Morocco ! This looks like a really nice authentic place to stay.

    • Authentic Travels August 19, 2016 at 8:59 am #

      Morocco is a very safe country. That’s what all the locals told me and I travelled there for 6 weeks all by myself. You definitely should go to see it.

  7. Erica August 18, 2016 at 8:28 pm #

    I’ve always been a little bit intimidated by Morocco. I feel like I don’t know enough about its culture to get the most out of a visit. But a guest house like Kamal’s is such a brilliant way to learn about the country and Berbers specifically. I love the idea of an environment that’s authentic even though it’s intended for visitors.

    • Authentic Travels August 19, 2016 at 9:01 am #

      Kamal’s guesthouse is more than an authentic environment for tourists. He has done more for the village either and for the locals. I could write a novel about this if I had time. 🙂

  8. Jessica August 19, 2016 at 12:47 am #

    I absolutely love staying in guesthouses, and truly getting that local experience. And it looks like you really got that at Kamal’s place. Do you have any other recos for Morocco?? It’s definitely on my list but not sure how to tackle it! 🙂

  9. Joanna August 19, 2016 at 1:28 pm #

    I love when guesthouses have that authentic look and feel. The rooftop garden is so pretty, I would love to have breakfast there. The rooftop views are also great! I always wanted to visit Morocco, I find it such a fascinating country.

    • Authentic Travels August 19, 2016 at 6:18 pm #

      The rooftop is one of the best places of the guesthouse. Anyway, I loved everything there.

  10. Urvi August 19, 2016 at 5:13 pm #

    I like your guesthouse and it seems all the decorations and arrangements are Moroccan style which is amazing. I also like the door design and colors they used.

    • Authentic Travels August 19, 2016 at 6:19 pm #

      It is authentic Berber style, that’s a great combination of colours.

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